Sustainable Jade

Many of us revel in the story of Indiana Jones, arguably the most famous archaeologist of all time, real or imagined. The story of his numerous escapes from evil Nazis, overzealous Indians, and ferocious Natives, risking life and limb to save antiquities from foreign, exotic lands made him a hero for some. In Antigua, Guatemala, a hotspot for tourists game for cheap food, drinks, and sightseeing, a real life hero exists in the Archaeology world: Mary Lou Ridinger.

Perhaps without the blood pressure-raising , death defying acts of ‘Indy’, but with much more staying power, Mary Lou and her husband Jay single-handedly preserved an art form, brought home-grown industry to Guatemala, and created national pride, all in a sustainable fashion. All this from over 37 years of hard work to prove that jade, one of the most expensive gems in the world, was not only sought after in China, but Guatemala as well.

Jade does not often cross the minds of North Americans, except for maybe those of Chinese decent. It has not captured the imaginations the way diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies have, nor have the media or businesses caught on. To the ancient race of the Maya, piles of gold and silver would have easily been traded for one piece of fine jade. Although the gem has been found in a rainbow of colors from white, pink, yellow and black, green was the most prized, as it resembled the vibrant Caribbean waters that brought sustenance to their lands, and fertility in healthy crops. Harder and heavier than most other materials, jade symbolized eternity; a piece carved by the Maya was meant to not only last a lifetime, but through thousands of generations. Bringing luck to the person simply by possession, natural oils from their hands would bring out the gem’s brilliance over time. With the disappearance of the Great Mayan Civilization came hundreds of years of ignorance, and a shadow cast over Mesoamerica’s ‘lost’ jade. When Jay and Mary Lou Ridinger, two archaeologists from the U.S., set out to discover it again, they seemed to be the only ones who truly believed it existed.

A study in 1952 found evidence of jadeite jade near the Montagua River in Guatemala, but it did little to spurn anyone’s imagination, except for two people: The Ridingers. Their dream in 1973 was to find the source of the Mayan jade, and solve the mystery of how it was spread throughout Mexico, and Central America. Surprisingly, the more difficult task arose not in actually finding the jade, but in convincing the world of its value. The Guatemalan government’s official stance at the time was that there was absolutely no jade source in Guatemala. They steadfastly refused to believe the Ridinger’s case, and provided business licenses out of pity and scorn. Five centuries of outside influence from a host of other nations, dealing in everything from covert operations, to governmental manipulation, to outright pillaging, had eventually convinced the Guatemalan people that nothing of real value came from within their own borders.

After four years operating their fledgling business, Jades, S.A., Mary Lou pleaded with Jay to stop. Tired of being the object of ridicule and laughter, it was seemingly pointless to continue. Jay replied stoically “Never”. Another 9 years of countless meetings, public appearances and talking to anyone who would listen, Jay and Mary Lou’s efforts were to no avail. When the National Geographic article on jade broke out in 1987, their fortunes took an immediate and irreversible leap. Redemption came in the form of a well-respected magazine with readership around the globe, and brought much needed attention to Guatemala, and the history of the Mayan people. With renewed efforts, the Ridinger team set out to find the ‘Kings Quarry’, the storied birthplace of Mesoamerica’s jade. Pounding on countless rocks along the Montagua River for 10 months, Mary Lou and her team not only found irrefutable evidence of historical jade production, but a quarry of their own.

It is one of the most difficult and rarest gems to find. Several others resemble it closely, but it is only the friction of tectonic plates combining high pressure, and low temperatures that create this gem. Matching the quarry’s unique jade to another northern site, they proved the Maya distributed their bounty throughout the region by river. It was a huge celebration for Jades, S.A., and Guatemala had a stronger foothold in the World’s small group of jade-producing countries.

In 1999, Christie’s Auction House sold an antique Imperial Jade bangle for $2.65 million. Although Guatemalan jade might not fetch such a price today, it may not be far off in the future. An uncut stone containing Jade is a gamble; one rock may have $100,000 worth of jade, and another $1,000. Painstaking work is involved to extract it, using diamond-studded drill bits, hammers and wedges to separate rocks into manageable pieces. Additionally, Guatemalan jade has only received media attention in the last 20 years, whereas in China it has been revered continually for centuries. It was certainly valued above all else by the Maya, and several civilizations before them who, using only rudimentary tools, may have taken weeks or months to create a single beaded necklace.

What makes Jades S.A.’s operation today even more special is how they mine it. As the process involves only surface mining, no trees are cut, no holes are dug, and roads are unnecessary. The farmer’s fields, virtually untouched, continue to operate as usual, and the farmers themselves assist in the process, keeping poachers at bay. Their children are fed well, and receive an education due mostly to the profits of Jades S.A. Only 2 companies in Guatemala have valid licenses from the Government, so most jade that is bought off the street is either illegal, or fake. For many years, newly elected Guatemalan Presidents have come to Jades S.A. to buy death masks as gifts for visiting dignitaries. Bill Clinton also passed through in 1999 and bought a necklace for his daughter Chelsea.

One would think that someone who was able to bring back an ancient industry after hundreds of years, instill national pride, and give back to the people, would be content to rest on their laurels. Add to the mix that this person comes from a completely different country. Not Mary Lou Ridinger. Her husband’s vision continues, after his death a year and a half ago, with her creation of the Maya Conservancy (www.themayaconservancy.org). It is a non-profit organization with a mission to save the rich Mayan Cultural History, and continue educating people on these industrious and intelligent people. The cradle of Mayan civilization and the birthplace of the Mayan Calendar were set to be dissected by a new highway funded by a foreign company, potentially destroying thousands of years of history. Mary Lou went to work, speaking out to everyone from universities to rotary clubs, and the tide was eventually turned in her favour, and the highway was re-routed.

There is no sign of this exciting, and illustrious industry dying again soon, as three generations are now fully employed and involved in Jades S.A.’s operations. Through Mary Lou’s tenacity, her children and grandchildren are set to continue well into the future. One may have heard the Mayans say during the Conquest that “the Spanish can take all the gold and silver they want, but at least they don’t know about the jade”. With a sustainable, healthy and responsible business preserving the past, and continuing into the future, Mary Lou isn’t afraid to tell the whole world.

Traversing Mexico City

We planned out our route, and successfully completed all the goals we set out for ourselves. This strapping a Mexican to the back of the bike definitely makes the trip in a big city easier. First, we went to the shoe repair store and picked up my black cowboy boots, returned a shiny black. Then, we met the tailor who had placed my next two badges on my leather coat: United States, and Mexico. (I have bought badges for each country I will experience on the road, starting with Canada, and ending with Brazil; the return journey badges will be added on after). Third, was the leather shop, which featured some amazing saddles (I took a picture for dad look at that saddle horn eh?). I wondered about a saddlery shop in Mexico City, but the cowboys must come in from the ranches to buy them, or they get shipped out. We picked up my saddle bags, with the left side totally repaired and all shiny and black as well.

Finally, the Automotriz Snoopy where we hit a bit of a snag, as Luis was not there, and wouldn't be for another hour. No big deal, as we went across the street for tacos. When we returned, one mechanic remounted the saddle bags under the back seat, and the other fixed the two side lights on the front; none of us caught this last week, but a wire had fried behind the main light from too much heat. I fried again too, with another dizzy spell after standing up too quickly. The elevation in Mexico City is 7,349 feet, and elevation sickness can occur after 5,000. All my muscles want to collapse, but I was ready this time and grabbed onto a post. Then it was gone.

Luis took us around while we were waiting, and showed us his speed bike (he commutes every day, and splits the lanes just like me) his go kart, F1 look alike car that has no category, and a motorcross. He likes his toys. His business started with one VW, and once him and his friend realized they were good at car repairs, all their buddies started giving them jobs. Soon, they had to open up a bigger garage, and another.

When it came time to pay, I asked him how much. He said "zero". I gave him a big hug after an incredulous "Si? Non!" I joked with him that when the Canadians find out the work is free, they will swamp his shop. We had a good laugh, and headed off to the younger Luis' house for a coffee. Upon return, we mapped out my quest to see the top 10 sites of Mexico City in one day. Oh, as well as check my rear brake at Yamaha, and pick up my passport.

a little video on some riding in mexico d.f. today

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHlgTbNrcpw

Tequila Road

A couple hours west of Mexico City a fitting tribute to one of the country's claim to fame: Tequila, the town named after the liquor made in it's finest form from the blue agave plant, and a marketing opportunity.

Mexican Tourism

The Mexican Tourism Industry has experienced such significant setbacks recently that business owners refer to the swine flu epidemic of 2008 as ‘the good old days’. The media’s attention on the over 28,000 drug-related deaths in the last 3 years, combined with the slowest economy in a decade has taken its toll on local tourism. Puerto Vallarta, a stalwart destination of North American travellers for the last 50 years, has been built on this business, and is feeling the crunch. Don’t let this doom and gloom bother you in the least bit though – shopping, eating, drinking, and sleeping have never been cheaper.
The relatively quiet streets of Old Puerto Vallarta belie an over 300,000 strong local population spread amongst two adjacent states - Nayarit and Jalisco. You may feel as if everyone in the town is a beach vendor after dining in one of the open air restaurants, and find yourself saying “non, gracias” upon your return back home. They are hungry to make a deal on everything from bracelets to silver, ornamental oyster-shell masks to hammocks and it is customary to haggle on the price. Buyer beware: show any interest, and they will swarm. As you would be hard-pressed to find other foreigners, your money creates more interest here than it may have just a few years ago. Accustomed to seeing wealth, and not afraid to hassle you, the entrepreneurial spirit is alive and well. In the very least, if you are craving some attention, you will feel very special. Simply wear a t-shirt and shorts, and the local vendors will see you a mile away. This fellow to the left and I had an initial misunderstanding, he was thinking dollars, I was thinking pesos, so when I gave him $25 in coins, he had quite a pause. An uncomfortable moment before we re-negotiated at $140 pesos, or $14.

All-Inclusive .

Refusing to fail we committed to return to Bucerias to find my cousin and his wife. Helmets - check. Driver's license - check. They were waiting just outside their all-inclusive, and we got there bang on 1 pm, the latest meeting time agreed upon. We walked back east up the main road into the Royal Decameron resort, and the hot day spurned our hunger and thirst. A small, glorified roadside that looked like a restaurant was our destination, and we were rewarded despite no beer on site. Colin and I went across the street to the OXXO, Mexico's version of 7-11, and rectified that situation with 6 bottles of beer, one large bottle of water, and a pre-mixed Margarita combo compliments of El Jimador for less than $8. Colin and Corrina invited us into their resort without a yellow armband so we creatively hid our wrists. They were anxious to beat the bus crowd back to the airport, so they ushered us onto the beach, ordered us a couple free drinks each, and left within 15 minutes. As the bar staff had seen us already on the beach, they beckoned me on my return to the bike for a frisbee and some water. "Abierto Barra!" Open Bar. "Just a moment," I reply "uno momento senor". Two margaritas and two rum and cokes for Bonnie and I, and it was at least a couple hours before the security guard asked where our armbands were. "Checked out, checked out." We were leaving anyways, with a little taste of all-inclusive on our lips.

Cien Pesos Gringo

We get down to the Presa and I´m feeling no fear. I refused to let the Narco presence scare me, and I wanted to enjoy myself and take the lead. A drunk woman asks me for a dance, and to be polite I accept. We dance with the live music on the sidewalk of the lake´s parking lot with several people drinking and egging us on. After a couple songs, the drummer starts motioning agressively to me. We finish and I come over to him. Cien pesos ($10) for dancing. I don´t understand nobody told me about this. The lady intervenes, and roman is feeling uncomfortable he says music is expensive here. I don´t understand. I don´t have any money for you. The lady is asking me for another dance and offers to pay. Finally I explode. Why I ask in spanish why do you do this nobody told me there was a charge for the music. I was furious. I tell roman we´re leaving to get some cash to pay the fucker. I realize i´m out of my element here and the narcos are everywhere. we get out of here and i try to start processing what happened. we get back home, and i let it all out in english. they knew what I meant. we decide to forget about it and move on.

BC Ferries

Every single one of the customer service related staff on this ship is young, sweet and stunning. The owners of this Mexican Ferry are Italian. Not enough research on this subject to determine if the two are associated in any way. Rom and I were joined by a couple from California - and she grew up in Lacombe, about 45 minute drive from my home town! We had a great conversation about life and he was living on his boat full-time, referring to QTL, quality time left.

Snow in Mexico

It's a hot, dry and dusty day just past the border between the Mexican States of Baja California (B.C.) and Baja California Sur (B.C.S.), in a place called Guerrero Negro. A few kilometres out of town lies a large lagoon where the ground is covered in white crystals with three gargantuan machines including a dozer, train, and combine methodically scraping, loading, and removing it from the ground. A photograph might make you think it's the day after a big snowstorm in Canada, and the clean-up crews are out. Instead, you see a man in a t-shirt holding up a white chunk the width of his chest with a big smile on his face. And the reason for his mirth? The material in question is not snow, the bane of every municipality north of the 49th parallel, but something very different, something that has translated into big money here on the 28th parallel. It is the major reason for 50 years of relative prosperity in the area.

With over 14,000 world-wide uses from chemical production, to food seasoning, to de-icer, salt has become one of the most ubiquitous minerals for human consumption. In the 1950's, salt production became a growing concern, as San Francisco's supply was quickly falling behind demand. Several companies were looking for new sources of salt for their own production needs. Enter shipping magnate Daniel K. Ludwig, a savvy and effective businessman who was called upon to locate an area that satisfied the requirements for large-scale salt production. On a trip to B.C.S. in '54 Ludwig found the perfect place in the Ojo de Liebre lagoon of the Mexican Peninsula. With very little rain, a large salt-water basin impervious to tides, brisk winds and a high saline content of water, the area was landmarked as a perfect location. By 1957, a town was created as the labour force brought in to build the facility, and continue salt production, required the necessary infrastructure.

Exportadora de Sal S.A. de C.V., the company that Ludwig created, became the largest producer of salt in the world, providing 7 million metric tonnes to the world's markets each year. That small town, Guerrero Negro, has profited handsomely from his efforts too, even after he sold his interest in the company to Mitsubishi Corp. of Japan in 1973 amidst threats of nationalization. Since then, the population has steadily grown from 3 to 15,000 residents, with over 1,000 employed by Exportadora de Sal. This is surprising news considering the town is located in a desert. Several other towns to the North do not even register a blip on the scale of wealth compared to Guerrero Negro. But people are not the only creatures that find the area bountiful.

The salt flats used to evaporate the ocean water from the brine host an astounding array of wildlife, noteably 95 species of birds. 27 species of shore birds, to large Pelicans and Cormorants feed on the marine life made plenty by the unique biological characteristics of the environment. The bottom of the food chain consists of a bacteria that lives specifically in saline waters such as these, of such interest to scientists that NASA comes to study it every year. Gray whales come to the lagoon in the thousands every year to give birth to their calves. What turns out to be no more than a quick gas stop for people who don't have a clue what the area has to offer, it is an incredibly rich, and bountiful one for those people, and animals, that do.

Paradise

The first gas station I got to, I asked the attendant about the 'Sierra Grande Hotel'. Richard the Tuna Boy and Irene had told me about a 'burner-friendly' hotel in Reno that offered a 2-for-1 deal, when I stopped them to say hello outside the Gerlach pub. I asked the young fellow manning the cash register for a yellow pages, which turned up nothing. He didn't know anything about it either, but he did say "well, this guy would know," when an elderly gent walked in. Sure enough, the Grand Sierra Resort (helps if I got the name right) ended up right where he said it was. I was expecting a 'burner-friendly' establishment to be an old, run-down place with ripped off wall-paper, and rooms stinking of stale cigarette smoke. But no, it looked to be the biggest in Reno, with a massive casino, movie theatre, funquest play park, RV park, and the list just goes on. Driving into the parking lot, I saw an art car in the shape of a skull, and I knew this was the place.
It was exceptionally interesting to see all the hippies from Burning Man mix and mingle with the gamblers, and businessmen. As I was dressed rather conservatively, if not a bit dusty, I attracted one comment from a fellow who said, "there's something weird going on here. I'm feeling way overdressed." I'm sure the hippies and I appreciated the warm showers, hot tubs, swimming pools, and warm, clean beds more than anyone else in that place. I soon found out why the hotel was so cheap, and why they wanted us there so badly.
Free drinks were served to anyone who was gambling. Never being much of a gambler, I would do it only if I happened to be in a casino for Bonnie's show or something. This time, I had two days to waste, and recover, and hey I was getting free drinks. I lost $80 on the penny slots, realizing that the odds on these machines were never really in my favour. There's a reason why these places build casinos: to make money. I was happy to quit while I still could, yet I wondered about these people, these perfectly fine, normal, capable people, who come to gamble everyday. It seemed like such a waste of humanity - these people inserting their money into the machine in hopes of winning big. What would be possible if, instead of casinos, they were out doing meals-on-wheels? Would that make a difference? I felt deflated, and disgusted with myself. Perhaps I was reading too much into it. This just wasn't in Vegas, or Reno. All throughout the main streets of Montana and Idaho. One place in Montana offered a casino and a laundromat, so you can gamble and wash your clothes at the same time. Convenience! I enjoy the casino machines, and I enjoy video games, and movies. Before these things, and TV came along, people had to entertain themselves. What did they do? They talked, they had dinners together, they went for walks, they worked together. I don't need a doctorate in sociology to see a link between the break-down of our social connections, and societal ills. We need to give ourselves some reason to connect with each other, help each other, and be generous with our time, one person at a time.

Burning Man Exhibit C

As is common in most social interactions, there are many opportunities to become confused about one's role in a community, and even hypocritical, given time. I had heard that the founder of Burning Man created the genesis of this event after his girlfriend left him, and the subsequent heart break that ensued. I can only imagine those initial years, ones that were free of governmental restrictions. We can all argue the pros and cons of having several varieties and sizes of governments that rule us, but in those early days, one can assume it did not resemble the Burning Man of today. Today, the Festival has a board of directors, presumably made up of the original group of people who started it, and others who have jumped on board along the way. They have lawyers, full-time staff. This year, they elected to have a coffee shop, selling a variety of cold and hot drinks, as well as selling ice. One of the founding principles of Burning Man is that there be no exchange of monetary funds. These recent developments initially seem to tarnish the mantra out there in the Nevada desert, and left several people I spoke with feeling a bit uneasy. It didn't matter that the money was going to the Gerlach High School. It was just a gnawing feeling that this special place wasn't that special after all. Then, the more ominous thoughts of the impossibility of such a society in the real world, and you start feeling downright depressed. We heard rumours of mafia involvement, even. Being so close to Vegas, and Reno, why not? They can smell money. We met a nice couple who were looking after 28 RV's that they had rented out to festival goers, just going around to each of them for a whole week, and having some fun thrown in there too. At $2 to $5,000 a week, that's a significant chunk of profit margin. Can we ever truly escape it?
I had a friend I met at our grad reunion who said he recalled I was a communist. That was a shock. I used to have a picture of Lenin above my bed, a Red Flag with gold sickle above it, and made up a short-lived moniker of Vladimir. Oh yeah I was a piece of work! It was all a bit of a joke, and a little jab in the side of those things I didn't like about America. They were simply the opposite, I thought, and therefore was something to get behind. I was surprised that people actually took me seriously. I really hadn't a clue as to how a society that I barely recognized could survive, and how they would do it. I did love that there were differences in the world, something to choose from. Doubtless I would have been thrown in jail for any of these suppositions today.
All of these thoughts made me value compromise, and the need for it in any society. Above all, tolerance amongst each other is tantamount to a healthy society and culture. Any government or ideology that actively abetts, or punishes open thought, can only be destined for ruin eventually. There must still be some way of melding, and integrating the best of everything. Is it possible? Can a perfect world really exist? I know that is all anyone who has overthrown a government, suggested, or even forced a new ideology onto their people, simply imagined a better world. Maybe it's even a better world for him to the inclusion of others, but irregardless an improvement for someone. With that comes the eventual negatives, and drawbacks to any society. But every human experience must be molded, and adapted as it rolls along, and provide for that person's needs, whether it be physical or spiritual. As far as societies go, overall, Burning Man did a pretty damn good job.

Super Wal-Mart

My mom, sister and I have a running joke going about Wal-Mart. I send them the 'People of Wal-Mart' emails, and the articles on poor employee relations without benefits, cheap Chinese goods entering the market and destroying local jobs, and most importantly forever changing the variety, and value of main streets around the world. You should have seen me Thursday afternoon at the Super Wal-Mart in Winnemucca, or at least the look on my face when I realized I could buy EVERYTHING I needed from one store. Regardless of a company's background, people vote with their wallets, and Wal-Mart is taking over the world one country at a time. How do you compete with convenience, and low prices? Why wouldn't you want to shop at Wal-Mart, unless you've got enough money not to? Anyways, you can officially call me the hypocrite of the day, and I gained a valuable lesson in humility. Now, to try and squeeze six bags of food onto the bike.

Starburst, Montana

Americana at it's best, and a border town at that. After the harrowing customs experience, I had found a group of high school kids at football practice. While driving to find the gas station (unattended, but took visa), I saw a church that seemed to be a bar. A little drink wouldn't hurt, especially if I justified it. Dee Dee, the proprietor, served me up a beer, and let me come down and connect with a human being again. A vivacious, and ambitious character, Dee Dee moved to Mayerthorpe, Alberta to give a friend a new lease on life, and had left only a couple months before the 4 RCMP officers were shot down. 6 years of paint scraping and TLC has made the Mint Bar an international attraction. I was glad it was a slow time, and that I wasn't one of the farmers that were too busy in the field to come have a pint. A personal tour of the backyard, and some pics of her place in Sweet Grass were inspirational. If you end up having a negative experience at the border, throw your business her way - she'll make you feel at home.

www.mintbarofsunburst.com

Inception

Without a spoiler here folks, I will comment on the most indelible impression I witnessed within my own mind, and a trend I become more and more aware of. What is most intriguing to me, is that this impression has probably been going on since I was a child, and I ignored it. As I didn't normally hang out with the 'popular' kids, I most certainly missed most of the goings-on at the top. Jumping to the point: business men and women who would do ANYTHING to succeed - manipulate, lie, cheat, charm, influence. This, my friends, will never change. It is built-in to our mechanics. Would I be any different if it was me at the top of that company?

Something That People Want

Have you ever had an opportunity to be able to give something to the universe that a lot of people want? Lady Ga Ga has been experiencing this for the last 12 months, where a global phenomenon has been created from her creativity and essence. I decided to throw some feelers out for my apartment on Broadway and Cambie, and lo and behold over 50 people emailed me about it. Now, we'll see if anyone actually takes it.