All-Inclusive .

Refusing to fail we committed to return to Bucerias to find my cousin and his wife. Helmets - check. Driver's license - check. They were waiting just outside their all-inclusive, and we got there bang on 1 pm, the latest meeting time agreed upon. We walked back east up the main road into the Royal Decameron resort, and the hot day spurned our hunger and thirst. A small, glorified roadside that looked like a restaurant was our destination, and we were rewarded despite no beer on site. Colin and I went across the street to the OXXO, Mexico's version of 7-11, and rectified that situation with 6 bottles of beer, one large bottle of water, and a pre-mixed Margarita combo compliments of El Jimador for less than $8. Colin and Corrina invited us into their resort without a yellow armband so we creatively hid our wrists. They were anxious to beat the bus crowd back to the airport, so they ushered us onto the beach, ordered us a couple free drinks each, and left within 15 minutes. As the bar staff had seen us already on the beach, they beckoned me on my return to the bike for a frisbee and some water. "Abierto Barra!" Open Bar. "Just a moment," I reply "uno momento senor". Two margaritas and two rum and cokes for Bonnie and I, and it was at least a couple hours before the security guard asked where our armbands were. "Checked out, checked out." We were leaving anyways, with a little taste of all-inclusive on our lips.

Tourista

surfing in Sayulita, big washout from flood in September, numerous cuts from coral, policia fine of $350 pesos, failed attempt at finding cousins in nuevo vallarta, oil leaking out of bottom of bike, the whole spectrum of rich and poor, beach vendors aggressive.

Puerto VallIarta UnPlanned

My cousin Colin and his wife Corrina are vacationing in Puerto Vallarta here, and my girlfriend Bonnie flew in last night. My cousin and I had not known we were both going to be here at the same time, and Bonnie and I did. I love both situations. The Scheerschmidts came downtown looking for me, and fortunately found a sign I had written on the white metal grating of the El Sofa Cafe, which had closed at 5 pm as Amaranta headed home. Although we were corresponding by facebook they weren't able to get my full messages, so were waiting at a hotel I told them I was going to stay at. Problem was I wasn't going to be there until the end of the week. Persistence paid off, and the hotel stafffer was knocking on my window to tell me they were at the Hacienda de Vallarta's lobby. We bought booze from the grocery stores and justed walked around without a clue where we were going. We were all noting how exotic things were and felt. A roadside stand provided some excellent quesadillas with chorizo and pork. Rode my motorcycle out to the airport to pick up Bonnie at 945 and had a wonderful reunion. We are in the Zona Romantica after all.

Policia

A run through the red light at 4 in the morning did not go unheeded and $400 pesos later our deal was done. We ended up talking in spanish for an hour but i had to say goodnight.

Photo Opps Galore

The salt beds are a fascinating display of nature, and a possible link into our very distant past as life first began. If i'm ever to be a National Geographic photographer, I'd best consider wearing rubber boots next time.

Las Dunas

An attempt at art out on the sand dunes outside of Guerrero Negro back at the end of September.

Basura

People still throw their garbage wherever they like here in Mexico. It is changing, and will be a matter of time. A crucial step is the recycling of cans, where aluminum will be diverted from the landfill, cutting into the profits of the fulltime garbage dump residents. Garbage is money regardless. We did our part down on the presa and the boys helped me out a bit. We found well over 20 fish dead on the shore and I thought about how noone probably knows why. Helpless to stop the cycle.

Cien Pesos Gringo

We get down to the Presa and I´m feeling no fear. I refused to let the Narco presence scare me, and I wanted to enjoy myself and take the lead. A drunk woman asks me for a dance, and to be polite I accept. We dance with the live music on the sidewalk of the lake´s parking lot with several people drinking and egging us on. After a couple songs, the drummer starts motioning agressively to me. We finish and I come over to him. Cien pesos ($10) for dancing. I don´t understand nobody told me about this. The lady intervenes, and roman is feeling uncomfortable he says music is expensive here. I don´t understand. I don´t have any money for you. The lady is asking me for another dance and offers to pay. Finally I explode. Why I ask in spanish why do you do this nobody told me there was a charge for the music. I was furious. I tell roman we´re leaving to get some cash to pay the fucker. I realize i´m out of my element here and the narcos are everywhere. we get out of here and i try to start processing what happened. we get back home, and i let it all out in english. they knew what I meant. we decide to forget about it and move on.

El Rancho

Half an hour ride down the worst country road i´ve ever been on almost getting hit by a car that tries to pass a tractor. It was worth it with a big fiesta for the lady of the ranch´s birthday with the biggest gathering of locals I´ve seen in years. Kids, grandparents, friends all together. We danced to the band and Roman told me to take it easy and follow his lead. This was a place of tradition, not a disco.

Les Mujeres

One beautiful woman, two beautiful women, 3 beautiful women. And they´re all sisters. A cousin comes over in the afternoon, and I´m starting to believe Roman´s conjectures that Sinaloa is home to some of the most beautiful women in the world.

Famillia Gamez

We get into a traditional stone and mortar mexican house, and through a doorway covered by a blanket into an oasis of AC. Rom´s sister and mom meet us, and give me the royal treatment having known me for about 1 minute. his promise was true. we talk for about an hour in spanish using about the 50 or so words and phrases i knew to get around. my blue mexican spanish book became my bible. I joked I couldn´t speak spanish at night unless i had a light to check my book as necessary. Toilet has no seat, and shower is a square made out of concrete blocks. I was in heaven.

Sinaloa

I thought it a good idea to strap a Mexican to the back of my bike through arguably the most dangerous area in the entire country, Sinaloa. In actual fact, ´Rom´ was the one who spearheaded the idea, and i hoped there was a snowballs chance in hell we were both going to make it home alive. about a half hour of preps ripping the bike apart and godammn it we were on the road unbelievably. no stopping for gas, because it took so long just to get on the damn bike. she was loaded to the hilt. Guaymachil, the city´s name we were headed to, was morphing into reality in my mind the closer we got, and the further topolabompo and the ferry terminal. The city´s lights came with a welcome sigh about 1 hour 40 after our departure with just one stop, and plenty of wriggling around to save my butt legs and back from complete disaster and permanent damage. I was none too happy when rom´s first stop consisted of a dark house with no lights. It´s late, and i remember rom hasn´t been home in 2 years.