Salvador?

I found out my host has cancelled 2 days before I arrive in Rio. I've driven 1600 km in 3 days, and now another 1700 to Rio. I was going to stay today in Salvador, but it's too much driving to get to Rio by the 1st. So, I'll put out some more requests for a place to stay, and head out again. Damn this is a big country.......... Love you all!

The Impossible Dream (Man of La Mancha)

To fight the unbeatable foe
To bear with unbearable sorrow
To run where the brave dare not go

To right the unrightable wrong
To love pure and chaste from afar
To try when your arms are too weary
To reach the unreachable star

This is my quest
To follow that star
No matter how hopeless
No matter how far

To fight for the right
Without question or pause
To be willing to march into Hell
For a heavenly cause

And I know if I'll only be true
To this glorious quest
That my heart will lie peaceful and calm
When I'm laid to my rest

And the world will be better for this
That one man, scorned and covered with scars
Still strove with his last ounce of courage
To reach the unreachable star

Safety First

Thank you Brazil for your speedbumps, the largest i've seen in 6 months. All the food exploded out of my cooler on one, and i had to stop and run back to pick it all up. I forgot about the police man last night that stopped me. We exchanged info for a minute then he asked me a question I didn't understand so i said so. I need to check your driver's license he said in perfect english. He also informed me Brazil requires an international drivers license but don't worry enjoy your stay in brazil. We chatted a bit after I asked him where he learned his english, and told him he could stay in my non-existent house in canada when he comes to visit. He said that would be his dream.

Breakthroughs today in dealing with pain, thoughts, and overall physical sensations. Any ambitious person can overcome their past regardless of what happened by learning, and practicing some very simple, (but not easy) skills that countervene a human's natural instinct to protect themselves.

Found a dead crow sized bird, one that I included in a picture a couple weeks back. I decided to cut the head off and will cure the skull as a keepsake. Any suggestions on how to?

Back On LAND

Wizard

It’s the night before we arrive in Belem, 2 days after schedule. Word is that we will be in the port at 5 am. My bags and personal items are all ready to go. I also elected to don all my leathers to not only be ready for the morning, but to stay warm on my final night. It was a glorious night for personal victories. My friend Lisa and the Ellingson family had taught me the Wizard card game back in 2001, and she had even bought me my own set for a birthday a year or so later. Despite the game’s popularity in my mind, I had only shared it with other people once in all those years. The second time was tonight. I was hesitant to bring it out although several people were avid card players on the boat. I knew I was unsure of some of the rules, and the instructions were not clear in that regard. But, I mustered my courage and asked 5 other people to join me in a game after dinner. To complicate things, we were unable to find a place to play, with the boat’s top deck windy, rainy, and the middle packed with people on the ground and in the hammocks. We tried the basement floor of the boat, and lucked out with the first mate’s desk which we took over. We had two other players who also joined us, but I had to send them away, as only 6 were the maximum allowed.

As expected, several unclear rules played themselves out within the first few rounds of our practice games. Some were getting frustrated and annoyed, but I stayed calm and focused, and believed we would see it through. As we solidified all the rules that weren’t clear, I made sure to write them down in the instruction book so that I would know for next time. I wouldn’t have done that if I believed I wasn’t good enough, and therefore wouldn’t need to, because I would never ask anyone to play again! Instead, everyone loved the game, and mentioned they would have liked that I brought it out sooner.

In earlier news, I made a pass at someone and asked if I had made her feel uncomfortable. I guess I just felt so damn comfortable speaking to her, I just did what I felt I wanted to. Isn’t that what everyone does? I ignored all the books and advice on women, and just went with my feelings. In the end, it felt a bit embarrassing, but much better to know I put myself out there, authentic and real. That’s what was cool. Anyways, it wasn’t that much, just a stroke on the arm. I also downloaded my photos onto one of the kids’ mom’s computer and she was enraptured by them. The Amazon was so interesting today; the passage became very narrow in places, and the shores often displayed homes or boats of some kind. I realized I hold a lot of tension in my body, and it is my job to remember to release it. I want to have kids I want to have a wife. I want to be the best man I can be. Not for my parents, or to compete with others, or to do what I am supposed to do. But to just be the best for others around me, to be ready and prepared when someone needs something, and also to be there for me. Feeling good, strong, and ready for the day. I’ve sacrificed myself by giving into ‘pain’, and not fighting to be the awesome guy that i know i can be. Again, not to be popular, or to get something, but just to live life in a different realm this way. I think children need teachers and mentors that are smarter, quicker, and more successful than any of the CEO’s out there making $12 million on the bonuses or stock options. I believe that if children have the ability to understand the differences between what they think, and who they can be, we can solve most of the worlds’ problems in one generation.

My hammock is swinging so much i’m banging into Mar’s head, who is sleeping with her head on the side. Perhaps it is time to join the sleeping regiment of hammocks......

Piratas

Wednesday was a beautiful day, especially after I decided to stop smoking, and start taking care of myself I was in a lot of pain for a couple days, and my mind was not cooperating, often sending me into bouts of despair about my ability to connect with people. So, I just decided I was going to eliminate anything that could make my life harder in the long run, and really commit to making myself healthier. It’s been done before, but every time I do it, I am blessed with a short run of optimism and hope for the future.. I did some stretches, chatted with Iris from Taiwan (really loved her quiet, relaxed way of listening to me), had some coffee, made a bracelet with the two Argentinians, as Geraldo patiently showed me how. Children from the riverside villages were frantically paddling their boats towards us, and someone was throwing plastic bags full of something to them, perhaps food. Later, a courageous group of youngsters tied themselves to the front of the boat, and climbed on like a group of pirates to sell their coconuts for $1R . I have yet to understand the children talking but they don’t seem to mind, often questioning me about this or that Maybe someday I’ll figure it out!

Artistas

The 'New' Motor

Saturday and most of Sunday passed without a hitch, as we arrived in Santarem, ½ way down the river between Belem and Manaus. We left in the early afternoon, but realized we were heading back there and became suspicious. After some fussing and fretting, we found out there was a problem with the

motor, and we may not be able to leave until Friday, or almost a whole week. That was when all hell began to break loose.

Several of our new friends elected to leave. The poor Danish couple got shafted twice, and rumour had it they left without receiving their money back. That’s how upset she was at the way of life on the Amazon. The level of stress seemed to be higher with those who had made tight plans expecting a European-like efficiency in arrival time. Panic soon turned to acceptance, and the remaining group decided to decend upon Santarem on a Sunday night and make the best of it.

Monday featured a surprising cast of local heroes that took on the impossible task of getting the boat going again. I watched with interest as the welder cut open the metal wall surrounding the motor, wondering the scope of work to come. Hopes soared as we saw another motor on the back of a truck, and soon, it was on the front of another boat being roped up to hook on to the pulley wheels Tense moments ensued as the several ton motor was suspended between the neighbouring boat and ours, as the carrying boat pulled back to provide room. The men worked into the evening, and we all laid down our bets as to when we were leaving.

I heard the motor fire up early Tuesday morning, and although our final destination was still 2 days away, it felt a welcome blessing. A quick run into town was successful, as Gabriel grabbed some groceries for me while I found an internet shop where the owner spoke perfect English. We were told the boat was leaving at 10 am, and I was still on the computer at 9:55. Fortunately i ignored my mind’s prediction that the boat would be late again and ran back. Gabriel wiped his brow in mock relief as he saw me walk down the plank to our boat, and I felt i cut it very close We were on our way at 10:30, almost 48 hours after complete despair and worry.

Crianca

Hammock City

As soon as we drove in to the port, the men were on us. They whistled and shouted to get my attention but I knew where I was going, and was in no mood for distractions. Balark had already called the contact agent on the business card Tolio received for me two days early, so I knew the man would be waiting. Despite already having made a choice of boat to take, one short and persistent fellow found out the name of the company I wanted, and he told me to follow, running between cars. Balark wisely stayed back with his van and said “call me when you’re on the boat”. The traffic was too congested and there was no point. I felt vulnerable having lost my translator, but found solace in following the man through the labyrinth.

Within minutes of my arrival to the kiosk, my initial contact agent from two days before had left, and a group of people were telling me I had to ride my bike down the steep walkway to the dock. Oh boy. Up on the curb and across the sidewalk I was, as people scurried to get out of the determined Canadian’s way. I had 4 people hurriedly create a path through the crowd until we hit the dock, and I reminded them to continue. The dock consisted of two floating platforms, and although quite long, had a foot wide chasm between them, and one was about 6” higher than the other. After a moment’s hesitation, I gunned it over the gap with a loud bang from scraping the bottom of the bike. Finally, I was at the end of the docks, with one cheeky helper asking for ‘cem’ reals, or $60 CDN for about 5 minutes work. I told him to ‘pound sand’, and went through a diatribe of explaining to them that just because I was a ‘gringo’ did not mean i was rich. One woman really understood and smiled, while the others just quietly disappeared. I instead gave them $R20 between 4 of them, as they really did help out. It seemed I was at the end of my troubles, and celebrated with 1, 2 and then a 3^rd beer.

By 12:30 pm, a ½ hour after we were supposed to depart, a wiry, septic old man approached me and excitedly told me I had to come back the way I had come. It was supposedly illegal for vehicles of any type to be transported on the passenger boats, but the crew always do it for the extra money. I confirmed with a nice man sporting a wart on the end of his nose that indeed I should follow the old man’s directive. I went back over the gap mentioned earlier, but this time I high-center the whole bike and have to be pushed over, with a disturbing bang.

Then I faced a narrow plank going into the boat, not even wide enough for me to put my feet down. A truck was already inside and had to be pushed back to make room. The 3 beers were feeling like a pretty bad idea by that time. With a little help and grace I was up and over the metre-wide space between dock and boat. I paid the old man $R5 for the help, although he offered to stay and tie up the bike. I was then ushered over to the desk manned by a younger be-spectacled fellow who politely asked for my ticket, ushering in a whole new mood. My original contact agent had told me it would be $R200 to transport my bike, but when the office man writes down $R600 I flip. After protesting angrily, I retrieve the agent’s card, and tell the desk clerk to call him to sort it out. It wasn’t the first time I had been misled by a local on this journey, but never before was it such a gross difference between fact and fiction. I had to let go of the $R400 that made me feel so rich, and forget about it.

My spirits soon exploded like fireworks, as I realized I would have 4 days with young backpackers who spoke English, drinking beer, smoking cigarettes and playing cards. Another motorcyclist was on board; a Mexican who was on a similar journey to mine. France, Germany, England, Denmark, Spain, and Australia were also all represented, as well as an older Canadian/American couple travelling from Fanny Bay, B.C. The three European students travelling from Curitiba saved the last spot in an already impossibly crowded network of hammocks slung to the ceiling of the 2^nd deck. I really was in a festive mood, and made an effort to chat with everyone. It was the first time in months that I felt really excited, and relieved about the type of people that surrounded me. I had forgotten how lonely I had felt for so long. I certainly didn’t mind our 5 hour delay (true Northern Brasil style), but the Danish woman was quite nervous, as she and her boyfriend booked a flight out of Manaus the same day we were meant to arrive there. I served as her translator, and did my best to calm her down.

We all slowly got to know each other, and shared our different cultural ideas. We were on the Amazon after all. Mingling with the locals, I am sure they were a little cautious around these strange people. We were all surprised with the quality of food, and prices of everything on the boat. It was kind of like a cruise for folks on an extremely tight budget, with music on the top floor and a bar. Everyone kept busy with an assortment of things, with Marco the German resorting to making blow darts he was taught to make from his jungle tour guide. I joked and asked if he was going to make one for each person on the boat. There were lots of kids around, and they became more and more comfortable with us as the day progressed. The night was surprisingly cold compared to the day, and I had to wake up, run downstairs and get my blanket.

Departures

Balark and i spoke a lot about racism down here in Brazil, and how the issue is becoming more prevalent, especially towards 'gringos', and perceived wealth. We were able to speak at length, as we were looking for a battery for the bike. Then, Kramer & Kramer, some laundry, then out for dinner near the Amazona Teatro and the square, where it took 40 minutes to make my Caipirinha, and that was before the fight between the two mulher vagabonds (females). On the way there we stopped at the grocery store and bought some food for me for the 4 day amazon boat trip. This is going to be quite the culture shock............ it ain't no BC Ferries. We will talk again in 4 - 6 days.................

Manaus

I left my ipod and 'portuguese bible' somewhere in Boa Vista, and it's been hard to let them both go. Horacious road from Boa Vista but I never thought I'd be zig zagging through pot holes in Brazil. Left around 8 am, and got into Manaus (about 2 million people) around 7. Found the mall that Balark, my host, mentioned but it was another 3 hours with some help from a local guy before we found each other. The next day included a breakfast from the maid Nazare, then Toolio took me down to Balark's lighting store, then down to centro to find a boat to get to Belem. I had my sights set on the 'road' to Porto Velho, but after my conversation with Balark last night, I changed quickly. It is no more than a communications path for telephone lines, and involves passages through rivers. His friends father, who is a minister tried the journey this summer (dry season) and came back with broken ribs, and had to be transported all the way back by boat.

Today Toolio and I did some shopping to prepare for the boat: rain coat, sunglasses, 3 souvenirs for mom & jodi, and heje (hammock) for sleeping. We had some laughs at the fish market as well, where they showcased all the local species. Many concerns with conservation, as the market was just full of huge fish, and I wondered who was eating them all. I love Manaus, and the Amazon area. Balark and Toolio are unbelievable hosts.

They Tell Two Friends and.......

Our joke at the English school was that I was a new student from Bom Fim, and today was my first english class. When he asked me to introduce myself, I started rambling off in English at high speed.